The Summer Kayaking Diaries: Leg 2 – Surviving Victoria Harbour, Near-Misses, and a Cold Beer Sunset

​After a few jaunts around the Shek O area, it was time to commit to the next proper leg of the journey. The next plan for this series is to get the kayak over to the Western side of Hong Kong—an area I rarely paddle and somewhere our Wild Hong Kong tours almost never go.

To get there, I had to do something both exciting and mildly terrifying: paddle directly through Victoria Harbour and cross one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.
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Here is how I survived a mentally exhausting day of rogue wakes, maritime police chats, and high-speed ferry dodging, all for the best finish to a paddle yet.

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Phase 1: The Illusion of Tidal Assistance

I chose a scorching, beautiful summer day for this leg because this particular sea kayak is, to put it mildly, tippy. It’s built for speed, not stability, which makes it a liability in rough seas but a rocket on flat water.
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My strategy was all about timing. I looked at the tidal charts for Victoria Harbour and thought I’d engineered it perfectly to get a nice, helpful push from the current. I launched from Shek O, made fast time heading north, and zipped past Lei Yue Mun Gap near Shau Kei Wan.

Setting off from Shek O

​But as soon as I hung a left to head west into the main harbor, reality hit. The promised tidal assistance was entirely negligible. Instead of a free ride, I found myself grinding directly into a steady southwest headwind. Because of a slightly late start, I couldn't afford to take it easy—I had to put my head down and crack on.

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Phase 2: Ice Cream and the Marine Police

Paddling through Victoria Harbour is always a massive buzz. You feel incredibly small looking up at the towering skyscrapers of Central and Tsim Sha Tsui from water level.

Navigating through Victoria Harbour

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​However, it requires 100% focus. I had to plot my course meticulously to avoid any confrontation with the gridlock of cross-harbour Star Ferries, water taxis, and cargo vessels. At one point, a Marine Police launch cruised up and called me over. Thankfully, it wasn't a telling-off; they just wanted to have a quick chat and make sure I was okay.

​By the time I reached the Central Piers, my energy was flagging in the summer heat. I pulled over, hopped out, and managed to secure a much-needed ice cream and a drink refill. It was epic, essential fuel for what was coming next.

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Phase 3: The Kennedy Town Washing Machine

Once you pass the Central Piers and the Macau Ferry Terminal, the harbor changes. As I paddled along the promenade toward Kennedy Town, the water turned into a total washing machine.

The combination of endless boat wakes coming from every direction, wind waves, and the heavy reflection off the concrete sea walls creates a chaotic, choppy mess.

In a tippy kayak, this section was tricky. My pace slowed as I constantly braced against unpredictable waves. I finally managed to crawl my way to Green Island, which marks the exit of the harbor. But the real crux of the day was just beginning.

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Phase 4: Dodging Fast Ferries & A Solstice Surprise

The crossing from Green Island to the next landmass, Kau Yi Chau, is a high-stakes game of Frogger. You are crossing a major, hyper-busy waterway utilized by massive container ships heading to the ports, and high-speed ferries blasting toward Macau. These captains are looking out for massive ships—they are absolutely not keeping an eye out for a low-profile kayak.

A close call

Soldiering on

I tried to be as visible and strategically savvy as possible, but at one point, a Cotai Water Jet came barreling through and nearly steamrolled me. It was incredibly sketchy.

I had to be hyper-vigilant for massive rogue wakes that could easily flip me, a scenario that would be highly precarious out there. It was mentally exhausting, but I powered through the shipping lane and made it across safely. The sense of achievement was massive.
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As I approached the finish line, the day rewarded me. The sky turned into a stunning, fiery midsummer solstice sunset.

Rendezvous with Alan

What a way to cap off the day

​Unbeknownst to me, my mate Alan, who lives on Peng Chau and was helping me stash the kayak, had paddled out to meet me with a backpack full of ice-cold beers. We floated out there on the water, cracking open a cold one as the sun dipped below the horizon. Easily the best bar in the world.

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Looking Ahead: The Western Horizons & Beyond

We finally pulled into Peng Chau and stashed the kayak. Now, we have a fantastic base to explore the vastly under-visited and unknown spots of Western Hong Kong.

It's still early days for the Summer Kayaking Diaries, but the blueprint is forming. From here, I’ll explore the west, eventually loop back around via Lamma Island to Shek O, and hopefully—as late summer rolls around and the easterly breezes pick up—head into the far northeast. I’ve got my sights set on the sheltered, pristine waters of Double Haven and Tolo Harbour, places I have also not paddled much before.
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The adventure is just getting started. Stay tuned for Leg 3!