In late March 2020, Wild HK Founder Rory Mackay embarked on a 5 day Kayaking and camping expedition with Mark Agnew from the South China Morning Post.
The primary aim was to make a tour of the archipelago which creates Double Heaven. Located in the far flung northeastern corner of the New Territories adjacent to the Chinese mainland, it would require us to cover the best part of 140KM in order to achieve this (starting and finishing in Sai Kung).
The primary aim was to make a tour of the archipelago which creates Double Heaven. Located in the far flung northeastern corner of the New Territories adjacent to the Chinese mainland, it would require us to cover the best part of 140KM in order to achieve this (starting and finishing in Sai Kung).
Atop Wong Ma Chau, an obscure little island in the middle of Mirs Bay
A world onto its own, Double Heaven by any nations' standards would be considered a remote and relatively pristine place - all the more special for us to visit, given this was in Hong Kong. With all this said however; the adventure (rugged scenery, challenging seas and wilderness beachside camps) either side of exploring Double Heaven was just as exceptional, if not more so.
After a shorter half-day on Day 1 in order to get away from Sai Kung town, Day 2 was a mammoth 39KM paddle around the greater Sai Kung Peninsula and across the the mouth of Tolo Harbour to reach Double Island.
After a shorter half-day on Day 1 in order to get away from Sai Kung town, Day 2 was a mammoth 39KM paddle around the greater Sai Kung Peninsula and across the the mouth of Tolo Harbour to reach Double Island.
 Searching for a suitable camping location on Crescent island as the sun starts to set. |  Waterfront at Kat O finishing village on Crooked Island - the only settlement of note in the area. |
After a big second day, we earned the privilege on day 3 to go at a more casual pace and explore the various passages of Double Heaven. Time was taken off to explore the charming village of Kat O and restock supplies, before heading south and camping overnight on Port Island.
A huge effort followed on day 4 as sea conditions were less hospitable than previous days. It was graft paddling upwind much of the way and most satisfying to arrive at Bluff Island for a short hike and one of the best sunsets I've ever seen (no joke, have seen plenty)! The place was paradise; icing sugar sand, luminescent plankton, no plastic and a decent stash of fire wood.
A huge effort followed on day 4 as sea conditions were less hospitable than previous days. It was graft paddling upwind much of the way and most satisfying to arrive at Bluff Island for a short hike and one of the best sunsets I've ever seen (no joke, have seen plenty)! The place was paradise; icing sugar sand, luminescent plankton, no plastic and a decent stash of fire wood.
 Well earned beers after a big day battling away |  Sunset over Bluff Island |
Last day of the trip we made a detour of sorts to explore sea arches and caves on Basalt, Bluff and Jin Islands, before completing formalities.
Although we don't take this trip as a guided tour, or necessarily advocate getting to Double Heaven in the manner we did (it is hard work and requires ocean going experience) - I highly recommend for anyone who regards themselves as a real 'Hong Konger' to visit this remote enclave at least once in your life. Other than kayaking or taking your own boat out there, one can take a ferry to Kat O on weekends and Public Holidays.
Although we don't take this trip as a guided tour, or necessarily advocate getting to Double Heaven in the manner we did (it is hard work and requires ocean going experience) - I highly recommend for anyone who regards themselves as a real 'Hong Konger' to visit this remote enclave at least once in your life. Other than kayaking or taking your own boat out there, one can take a ferry to Kat O on weekends and Public Holidays.
Map detailing our route summary - covering approximately 140KM over the 5 day voyage.
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