The Summer Kayaking Diaries: Leg 2 – Surviving Victoria Harbour, Near-Misses, and a Cold Beer Sunset25/6/2026
After a few jaunts around the Shek O area, it was time to commit to the next proper leg of the journey. The next plan for this series is to get the kayak over to the Western side of Hong Kong—an area I rarely paddle and somewhere our Wild Hong Kong tours almost never go.
To get there, I had to do something both exciting and mildly terrifying: paddle directly through Victoria Harbour and cross one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.
Here is how I survived a mentally exhausting day of rogue wakes, maritime police chats, and high-speed ferry dodging, all for the best finish to a paddle yet.
Phase 1: The Illusion of Tidal Assistance
I chose a scorching, beautiful summer day for this leg because this particular sea kayak is, to put it mildly, tippy. It’s built for speed, not stability, which makes it a liability in rough seas but a rocket on flat water. My strategy was all about timing. I looked at the tidal charts for Victoria Harbour and thought I’d engineered it perfectly to get a nice, helpful push from the current. I launched from Shek O, made fast time heading north, and zipped past Lei Yue Mun Gap near Shau Kei Wan.
But as soon as I hung a left to head west into the main harbor, reality hit. The promised tidal assistance was entirely negligible. Instead of a free ride, I found myself grinding directly into a steady southwest headwind. Because of a slightly late start, I couldn't afford to take it easy—I had to put my head down and crack on.
Phase 2: Ice Cream and the Marine Police
Paddling through Victoria Harbour is always a massive buzz. You feel incredibly small looking up at the towering skyscrapers of Central and Tsim Sha Tsui from water level.
Phase 3: The Kennedy Town Washing Machine
Once you pass the Central Piers and the Macau Ferry Terminal, the harbor changes. As I paddled along the promenade toward Kennedy Town, the water turned into a total washing machine. The combination of endless boat wakes coming from every direction, wind waves, and the heavy reflection off the concrete sea walls creates a chaotic, choppy mess. In a tippy kayak, this section was tricky. My pace slowed as I constantly braced against unpredictable waves. I finally managed to crawl my way to Green Island, which marks the exit of the harbor. But the real crux of the day was just beginning.
Phase 4: Dodging Fast Ferries & A Solstice Surprise
I tried to be as visible and strategically savvy as possible, but at one point, a Cotai Water Jet came barreling through and nearly steamrolled me. It was incredibly sketchy.
I had to be hyper-vigilant for massive rogue wakes that could easily flip me, a scenario that would be highly precarious out there. It was mentally exhausting, but I powered through the shipping lane and made it across safely. The sense of achievement was massive. As I approached the finish line, the day rewarded me. The sky turned into a stunning, fiery midsummer solstice sunset.
Unbeknownst to me, my mate Alan, who lives on Peng Chau and was helping me stash the kayak, had paddled out to meet me with a backpack full of ice-cold beers. We floated out there on the water, cracking open a cold one as the sun dipped below the horizon. Easily the best bar in the world.
Looking Ahead: The Western Horizons & Beyond
We finally pulled into Peng Chau and stashed the kayak. Now, we have a fantastic base to explore the vastly under-visited and unknown spots of Western Hong Kong. It's still early days for the Summer Kayaking Diaries, but the blueprint is forming. From here, I’ll explore the west, eventually loop back around via Lamma Island to Shek O, and hopefully—as late summer rolls around and the easterly breezes pick up—head into the far northeast. I’ve got my sights set on the sheltered, pristine waters of Double Haven and Tolo Harbour, places I have also not paddled much before. The adventure is just getting started. Stay tuned for Leg 3!
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Welcome to the maiden voyage of the Summer Kayaking Diaries. Paddling from Sai Kung to Shek O.
The premise is simple: Our guide Rory has taken his trusty seasoned sea kayak out for a sporadic, ad-hoc loop around Hong Kong. No massive, multi-day expedition pressure. Just him, a paddle and whatever the day throws his way.
Phase 1: The Sai Kung Launch & The Battle of the Headwind
The journey started where the kayak lives: Sha Ha Beach in Sai Kung. The sun was blazing, the energy was high, and nature immediately decided to test my resolve. As soon as I cleared the immediate shelter of the bay, I was slapped in the face by a stiff southerly headwind. Paddling directly into a summer south wind in Hong Kong is a special kind of masochism—it feels like you're grinding on a treadmill, except the treadmill keeps splashing saltwater in your eyes. Knowing I had a massive distance to cover, I broke the first stint down into manageable chunks. I hugged the coast over to Sharp Island (Kiu Tsui Chau) to tuck away from the wind and catch a quick breather.
From Sharp Island, it was time to face the music. The crossing past Shelter Island (Ngau Mei Chau) is a big, exposed piece of water. The wind was whipping up whitecaps, and the kayak's seasoned hull was flexing into the rollers. It was an epic, arm-burning crossing, but there’s nothing quite like the feeling of being entirely isolated out there, rhythmic paddling keeping you moving forward inch by inch.
Phase 2: The Ultimate Mid-Paddle Pitstop (Po Toi O)
After surviving the open water chop around Clear Water Bay, I pulled into the sheltered haven of Po Toi O. If you have never been, Po Toi O is a traditional, sleepy fishing village tucked into a deep bay, famous for its seafood. This pitstop was easily the absolute highlight of the day. The Fuel of Champions: > There is no premium sports gel or energy bar on earth that can compete with what came next: a plate of piping hot salt and pepper squid, a mountain of fried rice, and a brutally cold Tsingtao beer.
Phase 3: The Tathong Tag-Team to Shek O
As the afternoon began to soften, it was time for the final push. I paddled out out of Clear Water Bay towards Tung Lung Chau, the rugged island that guards the entrance to the bustling Tathong Channel. This is where the plan got even better. I have a friend who lives in Shek O, and he paddled across from Shek O on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) to rendezvous with me.
We linked up near Tung Lung Chau and tackled the final leg together. The seas were quite choppy. As we finally rounded the headland into Shek O, the sky absolutely exploded into a brilliant, fiery Hong Kong summer sunset.
Hitting the beach at Shek O with the sun dropping behind the hills was a banging way to get the ball rolling on this series. The old kayak survived its first major test.
What’s Next for the Diaries?
Now that the kayak is safely stationed on the south side of Hong Kong Island, the next step is to explore around the rugged coastlines of Shek O for a little bit. From there, the grand plan is to keep pushing west. Most of our commercial tours stick to the eastern areas of Sai Kung and the Geopark, which means the Western side of Hong Kong is uncharted territory for me. I’ve paddled there only a little, and there is a whole world of coastlines, hidden beaches, and new horizons lying in wait. Stay tuned for Leg 2! Navigating the Forbidden Waters of Wanshan: First Foreign Kayak Expedition to China's Hidden Islands16/9/2024 In July 2024, Rory from Wild HK and his friend Nilesh embarked on a kayaking expedition to explore the southernmost islands of the Wanshan Archipelago. Although situated immediately south of Hong Kong, belonging to China has made kayaking these Islands hard. “For many, many years, we have yearned to reach this region, a genuinely remote and windswept landscape. The logistics to paddle with yaks out here as a foreigner were quite complex, we are quite probably the first non Mainland Chinese folk to manage this feat without illegally paddling directly from HK.” Despite having the trip cut short by inclement weather, it was still an adventure for the ages. “We will never look at these incredible islands in the same light ever again; whether it be from afar in HK on a clear day, or out of a plane window, their impregnable aura is now vanquished.” Having completed the Maclehose Trail, next in our crosshairs is the Wilson Trail. In many regards the younger sibling of the Maclehose (briefly crossing each other a couple of times), the Wilson traverses Hong Kong over 78 kilometres running south to north. Starting on Hong Kong Island, before crossing Victoria Harbour and plotting a course across the New Territories. Like the Maclehose, this trail also encompassed four riding/filming days. There is plenty of scope to break it up and take longer, or if not filming also do it in less time (particularly during winter). The last couple of days on this ride it started to get quite warm. Kicking off at Stanley in the south of Hong Kong Island, day one started straight out of the blocks with some punchy uphill and technical DH to cross HK Island. After a short ferry ride to Lei Yue Mun, the remainder of the day was spent getting around the eastern side of Kowloon. The second day started out a foggy one, climbing over Tate’s Cairn before traversing around Sha Tin then across to Shing Mun Country Park. A delightful section of trail along Shing Mun Reservoir then lead to a climb over Lead Mine Pass, finishing up in Tai Po. Day three was a big one! After a knackering climb on concrete stairs over Cloudy Hill, a flowy trail ran down to Hok Tau Reservoir. There, batteries were recharged before conquering the Pat Sun Leng Ridge, one of the most epic ridge top routes in HK. The original plan was to finish the third day in Luk Keng, but running out of light I pulled off the trail near Bride’s Pool. I returned for an easy going final day on the Wilson with a freind Ben. Riding through abandoned villages in the jungle and plenty of fun DH at the end made for a memorable day 👌🏼 Next up, as temperatures start to rise, we will investigate the Tinworth Trail, before tackling the Island trails of Lantau & HK. We have various camps running every week from July29th to August 30th
KAYAKING - 5 DAY PROGRAMME https://www.wildhongkong.com/kayaking---5-day-programme.html MIXED ACTIVITIES - 5 DAY PROGRAMME https://www.wildhongkong.com/mixed-activities---5-day... HIKING & STREAM TREKKING - 5 DAY PROGRAMME https://www.wildhongkong.com/hiking--stream-trekking---5... Pickup & drop off Central available Progressive programme from Monday to Friday Small bespoke camps for maximum engagement Discounts available for group bookings Certified: First Aid & SCRC Safe and fun adventure camps from the ages 9 yo upwards to 18 yo (participants will be grouped to with others of similar age) Head to our website to register or see further details; School Holiday Adventure Programmes For more inquiries; Call or Whatsapp: 6025 3862 Email: [email protected] DM us on Facebook or Instagram @wildhongkong We start this series with arguably Hong Kong's most famous trail, the Maclehose! Spanning 100 kilometres across the New Territories, we explore this stunning route from west to east, starting in Tuen Mun and finishing up in Sai Kung.
Beginning the first morning in Tuen Mun, we then burst through Tai Lam Country Park and over Tai Mo Shan before finishing up at Shing Mun Reservoir by nightfall. On day two, continuing onto the central section of the Maclehose Trail, we navigate the hilltop trails north of Kowloon. Passing Kowloon Reservoir and Lion Rock on the way to Tate’s Cairn. Riding Stage 4 on the third day took us away from the urban areas of Kowloon and towards the more remote countryside of Ma On Shan Country Park. Had hoped to potentially ride further on this day, but progress was checked by a mechanical issue. Returning with the bicycle fully repaired, the Sai Kung sections lay in wait for what proved be a spectacular final day of this expedition 💪🏼😎 Four more trails to come! Another fabulous programme all over HK with the kids from Island School! Mixing up a variety of locations and activities each day. There is a bountiful array of wild waterfalls to explore in Hong Kong, some more remote and some more accessible than others. Our list focuses on some of the easier to reach waterfalls, but ones which are thoroughly wild and unspoilt. Bride’s Pool & Mirror Pool These beautiful pools are very accessible; both can be sighted with little walking involved. Legend has it that en route to her wedding; a bride fell into the river above and was carried down the waterfall. With that said, these shallow pools do not possess any cliff jumping opportunities and are defined by a picture perfect cascade that drops into the Bride’s Pool. Combine a visit to the falls with some time spent enjoying the nearby village of Tai Mei Tuk. Grab a bite at one of the many restaurants around or dabble in some water sports to make for the perfect day out! Getting there: Take the MTR East Rail to Tai Po Market Station and board the 20C minibus to Tai Mei Tuk. From there one will have to walk for a further hour or catch a $40 taxi to the Bride’s Pool car park. However, on Sundays and public holidays you can take the 257R KMB bus from Tai Po Market all the way to the Bride’s Pool. Man Cheung Po Venture out to the far southeastern bounds of HK and Lantau Island to discover a beautiful vista. Less than four kilometers from the Tai O bus stop you can find 200 meters of layered tumbling waterfalls overlooking the South China Sea. If that isn’t enough, couple the adventure with a day exploring Tai O fishing village and keep an eye out for the famous pink dolphins off the coast. Be warned that it is prohibited to swim in the infinity pool on the river, although continue upstream or downstream and there are plenty of rock pools to make your own. Getting there: Hop on the MTR to Tung Chung or the Ferry to Mui Wo. From there, grab the number 11 or number 1 bus respectively, to the Tai O. Follow the pier near the bus stop, continuing along the shorefront path. About 3km into the walk you will see a sign on your left for Man Cheung Po, don’t take it. Instead simply stay on the coastal path until a set of stairs on the left comes into view; this is the way up the valley to the rock pools. The whole route from Tai O should take around an hour each way to complete.
Sheung Luk Stream The Sheung Luk Stream in Sai Kung Country Park is quickly becoming one of the more popular summer spots to take a refreshing dip. Although the lower waterfall of Sheung Luk Stream is not the most picturesque waterfall going around, it is a lot of fun and serves as suitable refreshment after a day spent at the beach. This hangout spot has deep pools for swimming and cliff jumps of differing heights from little ledges to 7meter drops. Getting there: From Sai Kung, take the 29R village bus or taxi to Sai Wan Pavilion. Walk for an hour to reach Sai Wan and then a further 10 minutes upstream from Sai Wan beach to reach the pools. Tai Tam Mound Waterfall
Secretly tucked away above Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir, it’s easy to walk right past Tai Tam Mound Waterfall without a second thought. The natural beauty starts out as a stream over a low cliff, but then continues through a stretch of wild greenery, before dropping out of sight. Getting there: Walk northwest along the Hong Kong Trail, north of Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir dam. Cross the bridge after 10 minutes and at the next wooden bridge, you will see a scramble down a tiny stream on the left. Hong Kong is the epicenter of travel in Asia. It was under British rule between 1841 and 1997 for 156
years, through the industrial era and the modernization of air travel. Hong Kong has developed into a multicultural city, making it easier for travelers to navigate and communicate with locals. This has kickstarted an economic boom in the tourism industry for Hong Kong, capturing its best sights and building new attractions. If you are heading to Hong Kong soon, here are five things to know before you go. Current Travel Restrictions Since 2019, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, Hong Kong has closed its borders to non-citizens to keep the locals safe. Having gone through previous pandemics such as SARS, it’s unsurprising that they are extra vigilant this time around. Hong Kong citizens, however, are allowed to travel back, but they are required to quarantine for 21 days in selected quarantine hotels. In 2022, the Hong Kong government plans to lift these restrictions and kick start tourism again. Octopus Card When you arrive, get yourself an Octopus card. You can purchase these at the airport and at any of the Train/MTR (Subway) stations. These Octopus cards have been used by residents and tourists alike for years, as it makes travel much easier. The concept is simple: you purchase a card for $50HKD and top it up with any amount up to $500HKD. You can then use it for travel, vending machines, and even at convenience stores. The use is all contactless on buses, train stations, MTR stations, etc. MTR Map If you have not been to Hong Kong before, the MTR is the easiest way to get around the city since it is quick and there is always another train two minutes away if you miss one. Make sure you print out or save an image on your phone of a map of the MTR (Subway) lines. This way, you can determine which color lines you will be going on ahead of your travels, as MTR stations can usually be really packed and rushed. Knowing which stops you need to change at ahead of time really helps navigate to your journey smoothly. Meal Plan If you’re a huge foodie, then you’re in for a real treat. Hong Kong has something for everyone, from authentic dim sum restaurants to street food the locals love. You also have your international fast- food chains if you’re looking for something close to home. As easy as it is to get a bite to eat, it is also really important to stay on top of your health and wellbeing. So, you might want to consider getting your meals planned for you so you can keep track of what you eat. It is so easy to overindulge yourself with these great tasting new cuisines. Advanced Tickets There are so many attractions to visit in Hong Kong, including Disneyland, Ocean Park, Huge Buddha Temples and Madame Tussauds at The Peak. You will definitely need over a week to visit these wonderful places. To get the best deals and skip long queues, make sure you pre book it all online. You usually get a cheaper deal and you’ll get to skip the mile-long queues. Hong Kong, in general, is a destination full of surprises, cheap food and great attractions. Hong Kong is a very international city, ranked 5th with the world’s best airport in 2019. Traveling to and from other countries in Asia is also very convenient from Hong Kong. However, until restrictions are lifted, Hong Kong is accepting only residents and students into the city following a strict quarantine regime. So, make sure you do your research and check the HK.GOV website for updates before travel. Venturing into the wilds of Sai Kung, the plethora of options open to hikers is astounding. Amongst the area’s list of many hills, top of most to do lists lies Sharp Peak. Arguably Hong Kong’s most remote mountain, areas surrounding the mount are simply stunning! Although Sharp Peak isn’t massively high at 468m, it is a very prominent hill and easy on the eye. The unspoilt views from the summit are among the finest in the land. Much of the route to and from is simply a segment the MacLehose Trail stage 2, however the meat of this sandwich deviates away to tackle Sharp Peak itself. Getting there can take some time from HK Island and Kowloon (particularly on weekends & Public Holidays), but it is a relatively hassle-free trip. Having reached Sai Kung, grab a cab out to either Pak Tam Au or Sai Wan Pavilion for around $100. Alternatively, one can take the 29R village bus from SK Town Centre to Sai Wan Pavilion or Hoi Ha Minibus and various KMB routes to reach Pak Tam Au. If starting at Pak Tam Au (easiest way), walk for an hour along the Maclehose Trail up to the top of the pass just after distance marker M040 where you then need to make a left turn onto a smaller trail. If coming from Sai Wan way, you’ll need to first reach Ham Tin Wan, then at the top of the pass out of Tai Long Wan, turn right instead of left to reach this trail. From there the ribbon trail works its way along a gentle ridgeline, transporting you through some light forests before breaking out into shrubbery, followed by open grassland. From here the way up is clearly evident as the gradient dramatically steps up a gear and Sharp Peak gets ‘sharp’.
The natural rock formations in the area south of Sharp Peak are very special and if you have a little extra time. Exploring the adjacent HK Geopark makes for a fun detour hiking over to the East Dam if you are very fit, or by sea (if there are speedboats operating) out of Tai Long Wan.
All in all, this is arguably Hong Kong’s most prestigious summit to have bagged. It may not be quite as high as Tai Mo Shan, or as technical as some other hills; but for its remoteness and beauty, Sharp Peak is a true HK heavyweight. For anyone who enjoys a physical challenge and packing in lots of sights, these routes make for an incredible day out. A rugged and windswept headland, Cape D’Aguilar offers breathtaking coastal scenery without the need for a back breaking adventure. However, at the same time there are ways to spice up the day for those who are more intrepid. It can be done either as a half day or full day outing. Littered with sculpted granite outcrops and sparse tree cover to obscure the horizon, hiking here is never dull with near constant ocean vistas to stimulate the senses. Located on the southeasternmost tip of Hong Kong Island, Cape Dag was named after British Major General George Charles D’Aguilar and was made the only Marine Reserve in Hong Kong in 1996. For the most part, Cape D’Aguilar remains hidden from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong Island.
The lighthouse and marine reserve are right at the end of the road on a rocky promontory and easily located; one of the most scenic places in Hong Kong with views out across the Pacific, dotted by various islands forming the Po Toi and Wanshan archipelagos. Once nearby, be sure to scope out the rock formations containing two outstanding features; the ‘Thunder Cave’ rock arch and double ended ‘Thunder Cave’. For more demanding options, give the ribbon marked trail to the abandoned Cape D’Aguilar Battery or a hike up D’Aguilar Peak a go. Passing back through the village having worked up an appetite, there is a little joint called ‘Shun Kee Store’ where you can grab a bowl of noodles and cold drink if desired. Returning to the city is equally simple as finding your way in. In addition to taking the bus or driving, there are plenty of taxis on Shek O Road to flag down. If not ready to dart straight back to the city, one can also head down to Shek O to cool off with a refreshing drink and dip at the beach. In summary, Cape Dag is a fantastic spot for a relaxing day walk and exploration of some of the finest coastal scenery Hong Kong has to offer. It’s charming village and stunning headland walks will live long in the memory for those who make voyage south.
An Island of contrasts; one side among the most densely populated on earth, the other uninhabited in many parts. We were 4; a sea kayaker, an outrigger paddler and two stand up paddle boarders. Together completing the 46km voyage around Hong Kong Island in one trip just over 9 hours in duration, a bucket list item no longer! 💪🏼 💦
#wildhongkong #aroundtheisland #sheko #hkisland #hongkong #paddle #geopark #thisishongkong #typhoon #summer #adventure #paddling #beach #sup #stunner #fun #hkiger #discoverhongkong #wild #vista #hk #wildhk #hkig #photooftheday #gopro #wanderlust #drone #shelterisland A rugged and windswept isle, Po Toi is fondly known by some locals as the ‘South Pole of Hong Kong’. It is a well frequented location for folk residing on the south side of HK Island, but for many others in Hong Kong that live further north, Po Toi is a relatively unknown quantity. Littered with sculpted granite outcrops and sparse tree cover to obscure the horizon, hiking here is never dull with near constant ocean vistas to stimulate the senses. However, be warned; as with many scenic places in Hong Kong, if you have the opportunity to visit on a weekday then this is my absolute recommendation! On a weekday you will pretty much have the island to yourself, whereas on weekends be prepared to contend with queues for busy boats, trails and cafes.
For day trippers there are essentially 2 options when it comes to exploring the islands footpaths; up over the hills then looping back along the coast, or the more conservative option of making a return route following the shoreline. In the summer months, think carefully before hiking over the hills as the route has little to zero shade. The overland trail essentially climbs one main hill then drops back down to the coast, taking an hour or two to negotiate. No matter which of the two routes is taken, one will arrive at Po Toi’s southern promontory where Po Toi Lighthouse is located. For me this is easily one of the most scenic places in Hong Kong, with views out across the Pacific, dotted with various Chinese Islands forming the Wanshan archipelago. This lighthouse trail makes a short loop before rejoining the main coastal route. Back in the village having worked up an appetite, Ming Kee Seafood on the main beach is the primary port of call to grab a feast. Although a handful of smaller restaurants further back into the village are also worth checking out. Be sure to catch the final boat returning to HK Island, unless an overnight camp (double overnighter on weekdays) is the plan. If camping, the headland near Po Toi lighthouse is the best zone to pitch a tent, welcoming in sunsets, sunrises and the best of what breeze might be on offer.
In summary, Po Toi is a fantastic spot for a relaxing day trip, or cute camping option. It’s charming fishing village and stunning headland walks will live long in the memory for those who make voyage south. Kayaking around HK 🚣🏼♂️ 🇭🇰 - 260km around Hong Kong, paddling on the outside of all the outermost islands in an epic local adventure. 1st leg - 📌 Sai Kung to Lamma Island - Paddling from Sai Kung to the south, a night was spent camping under the stars on the rugged Ninepin archipelago. From the Ninepins lay an open stretch ahead, across a few easterly swells to Waglan and Po Toi where an afternoon was spent stretching the legs across the Islands’ many footpaths. 2nd leg - 📌 Lamma Island to Mai Po - Was an absolute pleasure to link up bright and early with DJ on the northern shores of Lamma Island and make a circumnavigation (i went about 90% of the way round) of his home Island together! Once at the power station we parted ways and I crossed in unusually serene sea conditions to Cheung Chau. After a comfortable stay overnight, I linked up with Mark with batteries charged and we made rapid progress reaching the Soko Islands with plenty of time to explore the area. Highlights being the abandoned Vietnamese refugee camp and most vivid bioluminescence I have ever witnessed. Winds picked up a bit over night providing a blustery crossing to South Lantau, home to freshwater pools and a big feed at Tai O. Paddling under the bridge to Macau we’d hoped to see pink dolphins, but without luck. This marked a turning point in our surroundings, which from then on became increasingly industrial as we approached and navigated through Shenzhen Bay. The finale of this leg could not have provided starker contrast, a majestic sunset paddle through the tranquil wetlands of Mai Po. 3rd leg - 📌 Luk Keng to Sai Kung - A return to solo paddling for the final leg set in motion a 2 day epic paddle; crossing Mirs Bay twice before rounding Sai Kung Peninsula to complete my loop around HK. The first task at hand was to transport the kayak across HK’s land border with China to Starling Inlet. Tranquil mangroves at Luk Keng soon emerge onto open waters and after crossing 30km over to Tung Ping Chau in light headwinds, I was in position to follow that up with a big paddle the following day. A northerly front swung through overnight and an early start helped to propel me homewards through increasingly tumultuous waters. 50km later, I was home and the trip was done 👍🏼
Info on DJ's series 'Drone & Phone'; https://www.droneandphone.com/ https://www.facebook.com/droneandphone/
Info on Mark's row across the Northwest Passage; https://nwpexpedition.com/ https://www.facebook.com/NWPexpedition Filmed by Rory Mackay & Jack Yao Produced by Rory Mackay #kayakingaroundhongkong #wildhongkong #kayaking #adventure #maipo #shachau #lantau #sokoislands #Cheungchau #lammaisland #winter #paddling #beach #hongkong #stunner #fun #hkiger #discoverhongkong #wild #vista #bliss #hk #wildhk #hkig #photooftheday #gopro #wanderlust #drone #lukkeng #tungpingchau #tailongwan #saikung #mirsbay #starlinginlet #ninepins #waglanisland #potoi There are many spots in Hong Kong that can feel far removed from the city, but are in fact just round the corner or over the hill from town. Then, there are those rare spots that are genuinely far removed from civilization. The Southern waters off Lantau Island are such a locale. Within these waters lie a somewhat forgotten and neglected archipelago; the Soko Islands. A great option for intrepid day trippers, yet still family friendly, little about a visit to the Soko Islands is routine. As there are no scheduled boats you will need to arrange your own, however if you make the effort to venture to this remote area you will be rewarded with a trip back in time! An untarnished landscape bursting with pristine beaches and historical relics lies in wait. If not travelling on your own private boat or charter such as a junk, then (other than kayaking), the simplest way to reach the Sokos is via Cheung Chau. From Cheung Chau you can agree a fee with a local boat operator to drop off and pick up within one day. Incidentally if one wants to kayak there, kayaks can be rented from Cheung Chau too, but it is only advised for more experienced sea farers as you will cross exposed bodies of water. If in any doubt, arrange for a guide. There are 2 main islands that one would spend time ashore on here, Siu A Chau and Tai A Chau. Both have several stunning beaches to enjoy and a small pier that a smaller vessel can safely alight at. Up till the late 1970s, the Soko Islands were home to merely a couple dozen farming families, tending to small scale agriculture and fishing in order to survive. This all changed in the following decades as Tai A Chau became home to an ever-expanding refugee camp housing people fleeing the conflict in Vietnam. Although the Vietnam War came to an end, the ensuing issue of these refugees was never properly resolved. The Soko Island camp was gradually shut down by the government approaching the 1997 handover and inmates were transferred to camps elsewhere in Hong Kong. It’s absolutely incredible to see just over 25 years on, how little of the camp remains. For the most part, concrete foundations and not much else. But a closer look reveals smaller details of what once stood at the site of the camp. The Sokos are an incredible part of Hong Kong to explore. Any adventure here will leave you with great memories and a sound appreciation of the living standards most of us enjoy in that big city, just across the sea.
Sai Kung native Rory Mackay kayaked 250km around Hong Kong, paddling on the outside of all the outermost islands in an epic local adventure. Rory cast off from the shore just 20 metres in front of his house near Sai Kung, and kayaked in three legs; "Paddling from Sai Kung to the south, a night was spent camping under the stars on the rugged Ninepin archipelago. From the Ninepins lay an open stretch ahead, across a few easterly swells to Waglan and Po Toi where an afternoon was spent stretching the legs across the Islands’ many footpaths. Was an absolute pleasure to link up bright and early with an old friend called DJ on the northern shores of Lamma and make a circumnavigation (I went about 90% of the way round) of his home Island together! Once at the power station we parted ways and I crossed in unusually serene sea conditions to Cheung Chau. After a comfortable stay overnight, I linked up with another mate called Mark for the remainder of the second leg with batteries charged and we made rapid progress reaching the Soko Islands with plenty of time to explore the area. Highlights there being the abandoned Vietnamese refugee camp and most vivid bioluminescence I have ever witnessed. Winds picked up a bit over night providing a blustery crossing to South Lantau, home to freshwater pools and a big feed at Tai O. Paddling under the bridge to Macau we’d hoped to see pink dolphins, but without luck. This marked a turning point in our surroundings, which from then on became increasingly industrial as we approached and navigated through Shenzhen Bay. The finale of this leg could not have provided starker contrast, a majestic sunset paddle through the tranquil wetlands of Mai Po. A return to solo paddling for the final leg set in motion a 2 day epic paddle; crossing Mirs Bay twice before rounding Sai Kung Peninsula to complete my loop around HK. The first task at hand was to transport the kayak across HK’s land border with China to Starling Inlet. Tranquil mangroves at Luk Keng soon emerge onto open waters and after crossing 30km over to Tung Ping Chau in light headwinds, I was in position to follow that up with a big paddle the following day. A northerly front swung through overnight and an early start helped to propel me homewards through increasingly tumultuous waters. 50km later, I was home and the trip was done." To see more, you can also see the below article about this trip covered by the South China Morning Post; https://www.scmp.com/sport/outdoor/extreme-sports/article/3124652/kayaker-paddles-250km-around-outside-hong-kong-filling?utm_source=copy_link&utm_medium=share_widget&utm_campaign=3124652 A look ahead at all the fantastic opportunities to adventure the wilds of Hong Kong with us in 2021! Hiking, cycling, kayaking, mountain biking and stream trekking are what we do best :) Hong Kong Island packs a lot of beach into a small land. While the north-side districts of Central
and Western, Wan Chai and Eastern are crammed with glass and steel skyscrapers and towering apartment blocks, the Southern district boasts bay after bay of golden sand and calm waters that are safe for a splash and swim with family and friends year-round. Grab your luggage and mark these locations down to plan for a day of outdoor adventure with your loved ones during the summer months. Golden Beach Located at the ever-popular family-friendly Gold Coast Resort, Golden Beach is a picture- perfect spot that boasts a 545-metre of clean, pristine sand imported from Hainan Island, complete with fantastic sea views towards Lantau Island. Besides lounging on the beach, you can also take a stroll along the promenade or set up a picnic on the spacious green lawns in front of the Gold Coasts Piazza. How to get there: Take the bus 962B from Causeway Bay (Moreton Terrace) or bus 252B from Tsim Sha Tsui (Middle Road). Tai Long Wan If you’re after a secluded day of relaxation, Tai Long Wan is the place for you. Lying on the eastern side of the Sai Kung Peninsula, this remote, beautiful bay is made up of four white-sand beaches, namely Sai Wan, Ham Tin, Tai Wan, and Tung Wan. Hilly formations separate the beaches, but if you wish to explore them all, you can easily hike from one coast to another as the trails are marked. The bay is also a popular camping destination, where you can rent tents and sleeping equipment at the Ham Tin Beach to spend the night beneath the stars for a truly remarkable outdoor experience. How to get there: Take the MTR to Choi Hung and leave via Exit C1, then take the green minibus 1A to Sai Kung Town. Then, take a speedboat from Sai Kung Pier to Sai Wan or Ham Tin Wan. Or, you can hike from Sai Wan Pavilion (approx. 40 mins) to reach the Sai Wan Beach. Long Ke Wan Beach Hong Kong’s answer to the Maldives, Long Ke Wan Beach is a perennial favourite among sun- seekers for its turquoise waters and spectacular rocky landscapes. The tranquillity and natural beauty of the beach are unmatched, offering all holiday vibes and stunning backdrops you need for a fantastic shot. Facilities are limited on the beach, and there are no restaurants or shops, so be sure to bring enough water and supplies. How to get there: You can take a taxi from Sai Kung town to the East Dam of High Island Reservoir, followed by a 20-minute walk. Alternatively, you can hike the Maclehose Stage 2 trail from the East Dam to Long Ke village. Cheung Sha Beach The lure of a trip to Cheung Sha’s upper and lower beaches on Lantau Island isn’t limited to its 3km long, wide stretch of fine powdery sand. The area is also filled with a plethora of restaurants and bars serving up fresh seafood dishes and cocktails, meaning you can stay a little longer to enjoy the golden hour with a satisfied stomach. How to get there: Take the ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take bus 1 or 2 to Cheung Sha. Hiking is incredibly good for the mind, body, and soul. Many people are taking hikes through trails
near the home as a way to clear their minds, exercise, and spend some time in more natural surroundings than the towns and cities that we have become used to. Winter is a great time to hike if you want to see some amazing seasonal sights, like snowy hills and mountains and deer migrating across the countryside. It is important to be prepared for sudden weather changes when winter hiking. Temperatures can drop quickly, especially when the sun gets low in the sky. Rainstorms, sleet, snow can also spoil a fun winter hike. Here is a quick guide to some winter hike essentials that will help keep you warm and dry when hiking in the winter months. With just a few extra precautions, you can enjoy hiking through the great outdoors all year round. Strong, Waterproof Hiking Boots Whatever the weather or season, you need a strong pair of hiking boots if you are going to have a successful trip out in the great outdoors. Hiking boots help protect your feet and strengthen your ankles. In the winter, it is important that your boots are waterproof. It is highly likely you will be caught in a rain shower or maybe even some snow on a winter hike. If the moisture isn’t falling from the sky, you will often encounter it on the ground as streams swell in the winter, and the ground deals with the extra rainfall. Here are some hiking boots that are great for both urban and rural hikes. Winter hiking boots that are strong, waterproof, and have soles with a good amount of grip are essential winter hiking gear. A Lightweight, Insulated, and Rainproof Jacket When hiking, it can be difficult to balance your internal temperature with the environment. Hiking can be very physical at times, yet you also want to be warm and protected from the elements in the wintertime. Some winter hikers make the mistake of taking one large and thick jacket to keep them warm, but very quickly they can start to overheat. The best way to dress for hiking is to use layers that you can remove or add depending on how you feel and the weather on your hike. When winter hiking, you should always pack a lightweight rainproof jacket that has some insulation. You can carry this with you in a backpack and use it when the weather takes a turn for the worst. Oversized Rainproof Pants Hiking in the winter can be a lot of fun and allow you to see sights and events that you wouldn’t see at any other time, such as animal migrations and meteor showers. The weather in winter can change suddenly, however, and you need to be prepared to give yourself the best protection possible if you are stuck in a sudden storm. Carrying a pair of oversized rainproof pants is a good idea when winter hiking. You can put these on in a hurry, and by being a size or two too big, you should be able to get them on without having to remove your boots. These are great for giving your lower body protection in severe weather and are lightweight so they take up very little space in your backpack. Winter is a great time to hike, as long as you are well prepared. Your hiking boots are always your most important piece of equipment, so make sure yours are ready for winter. The weather can be very challenging and difficult to predict in the wintertime so you always need to be ready for a sudden change in order to stay warm and dry while you find shelter. The hills of far Northwestern Hong Kong may not be so well known compared to other areas, but Lam Tsuen Country Park and its surrounds are as dramatic as any other HK landscape and ought to receive more recognition. The Country park is dominated by two primary peaks called Kai Kung Leng and Tai To Yan. Conquer this rugged range of hills and one will witness some of the territory’s finest views; gazing down upon Shek Kong on one side and absorbing the immense sprawl of Shenzhen on the other. Meanwhile clearer days atop the summits reveal glimpses across to Lantau Island and the expansive Waters of the Pearl River Delta. Not only is arriving at these mountain tops exhilarating, but the hiking to be had either side of them is most enjoyable. In my opinion Kai Kung Leng or “Rooster Ridge” is a more beautiful and attainable hiking trail, so I am going to focus on the hill of Kai Kung Leng here. But for those who are much more intrepid, then her sister peak Tai To Yan is also very spectacular and can be done instead of Kai Kung Leng, or in conjunction to create a twin peaks route. Lunchtime or early afternoons make for an ideal time to set off if doing just the one hill in the cooler months, ensuring pleasant temperatures and sunset vistas from the summit (however leave first thing in the morning if wanting to do both hills). The route up is most easily accessed from Kam Sheung Road or Yuen Long MTR Stations by taxi, ask for Fung Kat Heung Road, the trailhead is located between a basketball court and the Miu Kwok Monastery. If opting to travel by public transport, then there is the 603 minibus you can catch from Yuen Long to the same starting point. Once at the trailhead, simply crack on and follow the ridgeline trail upwards. Something you’ll notice quite soon that sets this hill apart from most in HK is how grassy and windswept it is. It translates to very tough hiking in the heat, but for wintertime it is simply sublime with nonstop views and plenty of scope to size up the route ahead. Having clambered over a subsidiary peak at 335 meters above sea level, the gradient eases for a period before reaching Rooster Ridge Summit at 585m. Having conquered this beast of a hill, take a perch and soak up the relaxing vibes. Few mountains in HK offer a 360-degree panorama of such variety; aside from the Tai Mo Shan massif, you’re the surveyor of all things in Western HK. On clearer days, the views of Shenzhen are jaw dropping. The sheer size and scale of this city becomes clearly evident from this vantage point, as one can see all the way from Lo Wu in the east to Nanshan in the west. To think that 40 years ago there was next to no development there almost defies logic. Take care heading down afterwards as the path can be quite skiddy at times due to its exposure and lack of stairs. The return route down is otherwise fairly simple to navigate. Keep following the hiking trail directly along the ridgeline and you’ll be back to civilization in an hour or two. Compared to the route up, the return trail is more direct in its descent. Once you reach Fan Kam Road, there is the 77K bus route and various minibuses that facilitate travel to the closest MTR stations of Sheung Shui and Yuen Long. If wishing to do twin peaks as mentioned before, then nip across Fan Kam Road and follow the trail which heads east up to the main ridge line of Tai To Yan. From that ridge, there are a multitude of different paths one can pursue to drop back down towards Fanling, Tai Po or Shek Kong.
Kai Kung Leng and Tai To Yan are classic winter routes almost anyone can have a crack at, yet keep even the most seasoned of hikers honest. Although the Northwestern New Territories may not be especially well known amongst many hikers, the area has a few nice surprises for those who venture out. Its enchanted forests below and spectacular vistas above will no doubt leave one wanting to revisit for another go. Rugged, windswept and diverse, Tung Ping Chau possesses a little bit of something for everyone. From family friendly walks and pristine white sandy beaches to rock formation adventures and historical rekeys. No matter how you wish to play things, this will be a full day outing at the very least. There are only two ways to reach Tung Ping Chau, either by private/chartered boat or by taking the public ferry (Weekends and Public Holidays only) from Ma Liu Shui in Sha Tin. Departing from Ma Liu Shui: 09:00am (or 15:30pm Saturdays only) and departing from Tung Ping Chau: 17:15pm. Fare: $90 return ticket). The ferry journey from Ma Liu Shui takes 1.5hours to complete, so sit back and relax enjoying the views of Tolo Harbour. A landscape of tranquil channels lined with red rocks (unique to this part of HK), before emerging upon the open waters of Mirs Bay. Located in the heart of the Tung Ping Chau close to the pier, lies the only major settlement of note on the isle and definitely deserves a pit spot upon arrival. After a refreshing drink and bite to eat, one could easily spend the best part of a couple of hours strolling the adjacent Northeastern beaches, interspersed by crumbling Hakka houses and shade yielding Banyans.
The unique geology of Tung Ping Chau on the other hand is a much more enduring attraction to spend your time exploring. The best way to discover the island is by circumnavigating the Ping Chau Country Trail, which at 5km typically takes around 2hrs to walk in one go without any long breaks. However, stopping along the way to explore all the incredible sedimentary rock formations on show, or delving into the interior of Tung Ping Chau is what this Island is all about. Possessing the youngest rocks in Hong Kong, there are numerous laminated coastal shelfs and sea cliffs to witness. Be sure to catch the final boat leaving the island for return to Sha Tin at five o’clock, unless taking your own boat back or camping overnight is more your thing. Camping in HK can be an awesome experience and Tung Ping Chau is a superb illustration of this. Beware that there is a lot of ambient light coming from China at night, so try to orientate your camp towards Mirs Bay and get more breeze in the process.
Among the list of Hong Kong’s many outlying places, the castaway isle of Tung Ping Chau is worth the trip at least once. The adventure to and from it, is as much an attraction as the being there is. If you fancy exploring a peaceful area that many folks don’t know about or overlook within Hong Kong, then a day trip out to Shing Mun Reservoir could be in order.
The simplest way in (other than driving) is to head over to Tsuen Wan MTR station and take exit B1. From the station it’s a five minute walk to the 82 green minibus, which will take you to Shing Mun Country Park terminating immediately below the grassy banks of Pineapple Dam. It is recommended you enjoy a meal or prepare food to bring with you before embarking on a visit, as there are no food vendors at the park other than a small kiosk at Pineapple Dam. Arriving at the Pineapple Dam bus stop, keep an eye out for some of the delightful wildlife on offer in HK, especially on the quieter weekdays. You could well be confronted by many monkeys, invariably a troop of Rhesus Macaques. Although the Rhesus species is native to Hong Kong, the macaques found today are believed to be re-introduced. During the construction of the Kowloon Reservoirs, the apes were deployed to the surrounding areas in order to combat the spread of a plant that tainted the water supply. They can roam in large numbers and enjoy the area around entrance areas, as the rubbish bins and increased human presence provides the chance of finding a meal. There are signs at the park entrance spelling out the dos and don’ts in regards to the monkeys. From experience, simply be relaxed. Don’t approach the monkeys with food and they will mind their own monkey business. Direct eye contact and sudden movements won’t endear you to them either. With those unpleasantries out of the way, the monkeys are great fun to observe and can be extremely photogenic! There are a couple of ways to negotiate Shing Mun; the simple way and the adventurous way.
Every now and then, a gap in the foliage may reveal framed views of Tuen Wan, Kowloon and enjoy the iconic backdrop of HK Island behind on a clear day. Back at the reservoir, this final leg of any route you take is particularly pleasant, walking along a flat paved surface under large shady trees that cloak the water’s edge. It is most definitely worth it to have a breather down here, soak up the tranquil atmosphere and capture relaxing views across the water.
Heading back to Tuen Wan from the country park is equally simple as finding your way in. This discreetly tucked away corner of rural HK has an incredible amount on offer for those who enjoy venturing into the wild, escaping to Shing Mun provides a peaceful retreat at the doorstep of those wishing to find space for reflection or satisfy a burning urge of wanderlust. While you might think about Hong Kong as a big city, there’s more to it than that. Head out to somewhere like Sai Kung national park and you’ll never have felt further from the skyscrapers and hustle and bustle of the city. And the best thing? Because Hong Kong is so small, you can enjoy a range of outdoor activities and be back in the city in time for dinner. Head to somewhere like Shek O beach or the UNESCO Geopark of Long Ke Wan Beach and have a go at the fastest-growing board sport in the world: stand up paddle boarding. In this post, we’ll take a look at the essential SUP accessories you’ll need for paddle boarding. Remember, there’s no need to bring them with you - you’ll be able to rent them in Hong Kong. SUP Paddle and Board Let’s start with the absolute essentials for SUP. You won’t get very far at all without a paddle and a board! If you’re just starting out, all arounders are great for those planning to stay close to the shore or paddling on a tranquil lake. You can recognise them by their smooth, rounded curves. A race or touring board has a pointy end and can be quite narrow. Make sure if you’re going for one of these that you can be stable on it. Boards can be hard or inflatable. The good news about paddles is that they’re cheaper. You should expect to spend roughly 20% of your board price on your paddle. A good paddle will have a T-Grip handle where you can rest your wrist and adjust it to your height. A lightweight aluminium blade (or carbon if money’s no object) will seamlessly propel you through the water (hopefully), no matter your level of SUP experience. SUP Pump If you have a hard paddle board, you don’t need to worry about this one. However, if you’ve got an inflatable SUP, you’re going to need a pump. Happily, you can get an electric pump which will mean minimum effort for you to have a fully inflated board. Usually, board inflation takes somewhere between 7 and 15 minutes depending on the quality and durability of your SUP pump. Make sure to store it somewhere safe on the beach while you are out paddling! Hip Pack/Dry Bag Can’t decide what to leave on shore while you SUP? Well, now you don’t have to with a hip pack. In there, you’ll be able to store your phone, wallet, sunscreen, and an extra layer. Usually sealed with zippers, the best hip packs are completely waterproof so you can paddle without worrying that your belongings will get water-damaged. If a hip pack isn’t enough for you to store everything - perhaps you’re taking a camera or a picnic with you to stop on a remote island, there’s an answer for that too. A dry bag will do everything a hip pack will, but you can fit more in. You can use this for other water activities too, such as swimming or surfing. Waterproof Gadget Bag Much like a hip pack or an inflatable bag but much smaller, a waterproof gadget bag is perfect if you want to document your SUP sessions. It can usually fit a smartphone and some cash or cards. Why not turn back to the sands of Lo Lo Shing Beach and take a photo of the fishermen’s boats all lined up on the white sand? A handy thing about a waterproof gadget bag is that they’re see through, so you don’t need to take your phone out of the bag to use the camera. Great for those who are a little unsteady on their boards! Floatable Sunglasses The crystal-clear blue waters of the South China Sea are one of the big reasons to try SUP in Hong Kong. However, on a really sunny day they can be super-reflective and disorientating. Get a pair of floatable sunglasses that you can comfortably adjust to your head with a flexible strap. Not only will floatable sunglasses help you to see better, but they’ll protect your eyes from harmful UV rays. Waterproof earphones Sometimes all you want to hear is the sound of the waves lapping against the shore… and that’s fine. However, if you’re taking a break on your SUP, you might fancy listening to a podcast. Or, if you’re really paddling hard you might want some motivational music to get you up to speed. A pair of waterproof earphones are small and can fit into your waterproof gadget bag so you can be connected while out on your board. Do make sure that if you’re using waterproof earphones that you’re doing so safely and are always aware of your surroundings. Especially if you’re out in the open ocean! Wetsuit
This one isn’t always necessary, especially in the warm waters of the South China Sea. But hey, not everyone wants to show off their bodies! Should you be SUPing in rainy weather or you just want that extra level of protection, a wetsuit provides an extra layer of insulation. Wetsuits are also the perfect sunblock… you won’t have to worry about those tricky to reach part of your backs burning if you’re wearing one of these! Final Thoughts on the top paddle boarding essentials for your beach activities in Hong Kong Now that you know what you need for your paddle-boarding adventures, you might want some better ideas of where to go in Hong Kong. If that’s the case, check out Wild Hong Kong to find out about the best beaches in Hong Kong and adventure tours that you can do in the city.
Getting to the islands is not straight forward, but that is what makes it all the more alluring. The most common way to reach Double Heaven is by a ride on the ferry from Shau Tau Kok to Kat O, however as this falls within the Closed Border Area, an access permit is required. Alternatively, you can join a private island tour to charter a boat or get a water taxi from Wong Shek Pier. The number 94 and 96R KMB buses go to Wong Shek Pier (96R operates on weekends only). For the more intrepid, one can sail or kayak to the region and utilize many of the secluded anchorages the archipelago has to offer. The primary port of call for all that reach the 4 main islands of Double Heaven is the sleepy village of Kat O. Located on Crooked Island, it is the only major settlement of note in the area and one could easily spend the best part of an hour wondering the laneways; crumbling Hakka houses interspersed with shade yielding Banyans. Enjoy a waterfront stroll and keep an eye out for the three 19th century era cannons, aptly pointed northwards towards the large container port of Yantian. Often visible, this behemoth on the Chinese Mainland provides a compelling juxtaposition between the traditional ways of the Hakka people and the rise of Modern China across the waters. From Kat O, there are a few short hikes you can pursue across opposite ends of Crooked Island; the most worthwhile being a shorter trail leading Northeast across to a large sandy beach which has views across Mirs Bay. Make sure to indulge yourself with a decent meal and grab fluids in Kat O, as there are next to no such amenities anywhere else. If you have your own boat or kayak, then Kat O serves as a worthy port of call before venturing to more remote areas of the archipelago. For those who are not so fussed about the logistics of venturing offshore and are happy to get a taster for the area, another option is to visit the coastal portion of Double Heaven near Lai Chi Wo Village. One can reach Lai Chi Wo overland by hiking from Wu Kau Tang in Plover Cove Country Park (take green minibus no. 20R departing at Tai Po Market MTR station to Wu Kau Tang), or by taking a ferry (Sunday and Public Holidays only) from Sha Tin (Depart from Ma Liu Shui: 09:00am. Depart from Lai Chi Wo: 15:30pm. Fare: $50 single ticket, $80 return ticket). The hike from Wu Kau Tang takes you in an Easterly direction over a pass to reveal fantastic views over the entire Double Heaven area, before descending to the coast. Venturing further afield, there are many trails in Plover Cove Country park to choose from. If taking the ferry from Ma Liu Shui, enjoy the views of Tolo Harbour en route before rounding the headland to enter a new landscape of tranquil channels lined with red rocks (unique to this part of HK). Be sure to catch the final boat leaving the island for return to the mainland at 15:30pm, unless hiking back or camping overnight stay is more your cup of tea. Camping in HK can be an awesome experience; there are a few great options around Plover Cove Country Park, the ‘Sam A Chung’ campsite being the best situated of them.
Among the list of Hong Kong’s many regions, the castaway islands of Double Heaven are worth the trip at least once. The adventure to and from Double Heaven is as much an attraction as the being there is. |
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