| By any nations’ standards, Double Heaven would be considered a remote and relatively pristine location. It is all the more special then, that out in a far-flung northeastern corner of the New Territories we have such a wilderness right on our doorstep. Double heaven possesses a little bit of something for everyone; from family friendly short walks and historical rekeys, to tranquil beaches and clear waters. |  Double Island Sunset |
Getting to the islands is not straight forward, but that is what makes it all the more alluring. The most common way to reach Double Heaven is by a ride on the ferry from Shau Tau Kok to Kat O, however as this falls within the Closed Border Area, an access permit is required. Alternatively, you can join a private island tour to charter a boat or get a water taxi from Wong Shek Pier. The number 94 and 96R KMB buses go to Wong Shek Pier (96R operates on weekends only). For the more intrepid, one can sail or kayak to the region and utilize many of the secluded anchorages the archipelago has to offer.
The primary port of call for all that reach the 4 main islands of Double Heaven is the sleepy village of Kat O. Located on Crooked Island, it is the only major settlement of note in the area and one could easily spend the best part of an hour wondering the laneways; crumbling Hakka houses interspersed with shade yielding Banyans. Enjoy a waterfront stroll and keep an eye out for the three 19th century era cannons, aptly pointed northwards towards the large container port of Yantian. Often visible, this behemoth on the Chinese Mainland provides a compelling juxtaposition between the traditional ways of the Hakka people and the rise of Modern China across the waters.
The primary port of call for all that reach the 4 main islands of Double Heaven is the sleepy village of Kat O. Located on Crooked Island, it is the only major settlement of note in the area and one could easily spend the best part of an hour wondering the laneways; crumbling Hakka houses interspersed with shade yielding Banyans. Enjoy a waterfront stroll and keep an eye out for the three 19th century era cannons, aptly pointed northwards towards the large container port of Yantian. Often visible, this behemoth on the Chinese Mainland provides a compelling juxtaposition between the traditional ways of the Hakka people and the rise of Modern China across the waters.
On the water in Double Heaven
From Kat O, there are a few short hikes you can pursue across opposite ends of Crooked Island; the most worthwhile being a shorter trail leading Northeast across to a large sandy beach which has views across Mirs Bay. Make sure to indulge yourself with a decent meal and grab fluids in Kat O, as there are next to no such amenities anywhere else. If you have your own boat or kayak, then Kat O serves as a worthy port of call before venturing to more remote areas of the archipelago.
Kat O Waterfront
For those who are not so fussed about the logistics of venturing offshore and are happy to get a taster for the area, another option is to visit the coastal portion of Double Heaven near Lai Chi Wo Village. One can reach Lai Chi Wo overland by hiking from Wu Kau Tang in Plover Cove Country Park (take green minibus no. 20R departing at Tai Po Market MTR station to Wu Kau Tang), or by taking a ferry (Sunday and Public Holidays only) from Sha Tin (Depart from Ma Liu Shui: 09:00am. Depart from Lai Chi Wo: 15:30pm. Fare: $50 single ticket, $80 return ticket).
Downtime on the very unique pink sands of Double Heaven
The hike from Wu Kau Tang takes you in an Easterly direction over a pass to reveal fantastic views over the entire Double Heaven area, before descending to the coast. Venturing further afield, there are many trails in Plover Cove Country park to choose from. If taking the ferry from Ma Liu Shui, enjoy the views of Tolo Harbour en route before rounding the headland to enter a new landscape of tranquil channels lined with red rocks (unique to this part of HK). Be sure to catch the final boat leaving the island for return to the mainland at 15:30pm, unless hiking back or camping overnight stay is more your cup of tea. Camping in HK can be an awesome experience; there are a few great options around Plover Cove Country Park, the ‘Sam A Chung’ campsite being the best situated of them.
Among the list of Hong Kong’s many regions, the castaway islands of Double Heaven are worth the trip at least once. The adventure to and from Double Heaven is as much an attraction as the being there is.
Among the list of Hong Kong’s many regions, the castaway islands of Double Heaven are worth the trip at least once. The adventure to and from Double Heaven is as much an attraction as the being there is.
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